Archive for July, 2013

Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hours

Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hours – Modernist Architecture as an Inspiration

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The latest timekeeper from the Harry Winston production is the initial watch by the manufacturer that combines tourbillon and jumping hour complications. The timepiece is quite intricate and skeletonized to provide a detailed insight on its modernist architecture inspired movement – manufacture HW4401 manually-wound mechanical caliber with an extended power reserve which is indicated at the rear side of the case. It looks stunningly from both front and back and utilizes a black sapphire for its dial in order to provide optimal exposure of the hand-chamfered steel bridges. Stemming from the Ocean collection by Harry Winston, new Tourbillon Jumping Hour model will be available in two housing materials – with cases made from red and white gold. Both versions are also available with lavish diamond decorations with the total weight of 6.25 carats.

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Not only that it is the first Harry Winston watch that combines a jumping hour feature with a tourbillon for the first time, it is also a bit more complex since it features an unusual design. Instead of being placed on the movement mainplate, the tourbillon cage is suspended with two hand-chamfered steel bridges. This gives an appearance that the tourbillon is floating in air and is not connected to the rest of the movement. The hardly notable connection that drives the tourbillon is a wheel geared to its outer edge which is very hard to see and almost completely covered by the lower end of the minute track. The period of rotation of the tourbillon feature which lies between two sheets of sapphire is 60 seconds and this is utilized to indicate seconds.

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The upper section of the skeletonized dial is reserved for jumping hours and a minute track. The aperture for hour resides at the very top of the face and it shows current hours which are changed every 60 minutes, while for the minutes, Harry Winston designers used a small red hand which rotates around the minute track. Thanks to the clever solution, the minute hand never obstructs the jumping hours indication. Just like the tourbillon cage (which weighs just 0.49 grams), the minute track is held in place with a series of hand-decorated and open-worked bridges. As the representatives of the brand reveal, the design of the entire dial is inspired by Modernist architecture which utilizes steel and glass as its mediums. The entire architectonics of the watch is supreme and it looks dashing and dynamic from both the front and the back (which includes a retrograde power reserve indication which shows how much power remains in its quite impressive storage that lasts for 110 hours). This extended power reserve is achieved with the inclusion of twin barrels in series.

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The entire in-house 41-jewelled HW4401 caliber is constructed from 330 components. Its diameter is 36 mm, while the height measures to 8.62 mm. It operates at the frequency of 4 Hz and includes a variable-inertia balance and a flat balance spring. When speaking about the included decorations, the movement is graced with Côtes de Genève motif, black DLC treatment, micro-blasting, as well as with circular grained gear trains.

Limited Editions in White or Rose Gold with Optional Diamond Decorations

On the other hand, finishes of its round 45.6 mm wide and 13.2 mm thick case are polished finish for the housing and the fixed bezel and a satin-brushed finish for the case band. The supported water resistance of the watch is 50 meters, whereas the attachment being used is a hand-sewn matte black alligator leather strap with an ardillon buckle.

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Harry Winston Ocean Tourbillon Jumping Hours is available in four versions, each made in a restricted number of copies. Two materials available for the cases are 18K rose gold (200 pieces) and 18K white gold (100 pieces). If these versions which are bound to cost at least a couple hundred dollars are not luxurious enough for you, there are additional ten models in each material which have their cases graced with 58 massive baguette-cut diamonds with the total weight of 6.25 carats.

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HYT H2 Hydro Mechanical Watch

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An exciting new example of precision-craft watchmaking has arrived courtesy of HYT.  The new HYT H2 Hydro Mechanical Watch is powered in part by fluid dynamics, featuring a capillary that encircles the central display to tell the time in concert with the hour hand.  The fluorescent fluid in the outer band is one of two liquids that move around the center as time passes, forming a hybrid system of timekeeping with the traditional spinning arms.  If it sounds a bit technically confusing, perhaps HYT can demystify:

“At 6 o’clock, the two bellows, made from an incredibly strong and supple electro-deposited alloy, are moved by a piston. When the first is compressed, the other is extended, and vice versa, driving the movement of the fluids in the capillary. The meniscus, which marks the separation between the fluids in the tube, displays the time. When it reaches 6 pm, the fluorescent liquid returns to the original position using a retrograde movement.”

In short, a complex system of internal machines pushes not only an hour hand, but moves liquids in an outer tube to display minutes.  It’s a wild manner of timekeeping, one that is difficult to distill into simple terms.  But when it comes to luxury and performance-class watches, complexity is often the name of the game.  Nice work, HYT!

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Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Limited Edition Watch

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Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Watch – You’re looking at the world’s first watch with belt drives, linear mass and ball bearings.  We feel, however, that you could throw out those little stats and this watch would be just as sexy.  After it’s initial announcement in 2004, the Tag Heuer Monaco V4 Watch has officially been released to the public, with 150 units selling for just over $80,000 each. The hands inside the Monaco V4′s platinum case are driven by a set of five of the world’s smallest belt drives and ball bearings, an unique approach to driving such a calculated timepiece.  If you’re one of those lucky enough to afford this revolutionary piece of watch history, we’re jealous

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MARCH LA.B X COLETTE POCKET WATCH 1805 IMPERIAL PHANTOM

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When it comes to “pocket watches”, March La.B is no exception. Indeed, the brand was announcing 2012 the release of a very limited edition of 3 pocket watches together with Colette.

The March La.B 1805 Imperial Phantom is based on the 1805 model but this time comes with a totally “darkened” look done “on demand” for Colette store in Paris. Its round forms associated with its deep black PVD treatment captivate the eye.

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RESSENCE TYPE 3

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Being able to “touch time”, this is what the brand called Ressence offers us with its new Type 3 watch. A timepiece that literally transports time from the dial to the crystal to offer its future owners a stunning visual experience. Here is a sneak preview of this Ressence Type 3 that we really look forward to discover for real!

One of the most striking features of the Type 3 is its surface time display that, while not using traditional hands, uses the concept of hands to display the time.

The Type 3 displays time as if it were projected onto a screen. Unlike watches with hands the Ressence display system projects the information onto the outside of the sapphire crystal, eliminating the last perceptible barrier between the dial and the eye – the refraction of the glass. The brain uses reflection and refraction to understand shape and depth. Filling the display with fluid removes the visual reference points that the brain uses to perceive the shape. The effect is amplified by the play of shadows on the spherical dial: It has to be touched to be believed.

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This unique concept of a projected display would be impossible with traditional overlapping hands. However, the indications are still read in the same way as traditional hands, because we have learnt to tell the time using hands and once the skill has been mastered, the eye no longer reads the hour but interprets the angle between the two hands.

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The TYPE 3 uses the whole surface of the crystal to display the indications so they can be read from very shallow angles – submerging the display module in liquid increases the contrast between the white indicator ‘hands’ and the black dial. The black DLC becomes even darker in fluid, appearing to absorb light. The high contrast of the white indications against the jet-black dial deconstructs time and pares it back to its essence.

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Setting the time without a crown!

Ressence design is characterised by purity and minimalism.

This quest for pared-down design includes the process of deconstructing the timepiece; a process illustrated by the elimination of traditional hands and by the invisible fluid technology used to project the indications.

And by removing the crown, the TYPE 3 opens up a whole new chapter in this quest for simplicity. The sapphire case back fulfils the functions of the crown with quadrants on the case back replacing different crown positions. The Type 3 is wound up by turning the case back. To change the date, it is simply necessary to make a longer rotation through 200° in order to arrive at the date quadrant. The hour is set by starting from the neutral position and turning in the direction indicated. A gravitational gearing system allows time setting to be disconnected by simply inverting the watch.

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Unprecedented architecture and system…

The TYPE 3 consists of 3 basic elements: a central section is made from a 2mm titanium plate that integrates the lugs for the bracelet; an upper liquid-filled capsule with the complication and indications submerged in naphtha; and a lower section housing the movement (inside a Faraday cage) and winding/time-setting functions.

The upper display module is completely sealed and physically separate from the movement. The indications are transmitted from the movement to the upper display via micro-magnetic fields.

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The dial and indications are curved and treated with DLC. All the components are titanium with the exception of the gears. The indications, engraved in the discs are filled with Super-LumiNova (white, grey and orange). The display system has been invented developed and patented by Ressence and comprises 28 gears and 57 jewels (out of 82 jewels in total), three offset bi-axial satellites and an exterior date ring. The upper module also includes a gimbal, a shock absorption system and is totally filled with fluid. A thermostatic valve system allows for any expansion or contraction of the liquid due to the ambient temperature. By virtue of the convex curve of the dial, the angle of the satellite indications is approximately 3° for the hours and 4.75° for the seconds.

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QUAD Watch Concept by Bell & Ross

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Very different from the first one, here is the QUAD Watch Concept by Max Marzo for Bell & Ross. Just like its name suggests, this watch features 4 different areas that display hours, minutes, seconds and date. The main design was inspired by the impressive Porsche Panamera headlamps, it isolates the essential time telling in 4 different spheres. Modern contemporary timepiece, this could be a perfect addition to Bell & Ross timepiece collection.

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Bulova Accutron Kirkwood Skeleton Dial Watch

The refine and smart Bulova Accutron Kirkwood Skeleton Dial Watch is a superb timepiece, fit even for the pickiest and the most demanding people. It possesses a classical design and timeless beauty, which will please true connoisseurs and watch-enthusiasts. Even those who do  not care much about timepieces will not be indifferent when they see this lovely men’s watch from the Bulova Accutron Kirkwood collection.

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This posh gentlemen’s timepiece has a wonderful skeletonized face that allows a clear view of its amazing self-winding mechanical 26-jewel Selita SW200 movement. It means that you have a constant insight into the workings of this magnificent timepiece, which is always really impressive. The mesmerizing dial also includes enlarged trapezium-shaped hour markers. Roman numerals are at the three, six and nine o’clock positions, whereas the distinctive Bulova logo lies at the twelve o’clock position. Luminous hands enable improved legibility, even in the dark.

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The face of this imposing Bulova Accutron Kirkwood wristwatch is protected with a tough sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. Visibility is further improved with the dimensions of the case which has 40 mm in diameter and is 12 mm thick. Its bezel is fixed and made of stainless steel.

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Piaget Altiplano Skeleton Watch

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For the fifth edition of the Only Watch auction, Piaget chose one of its signature models and applied a slight modification to make it unique. It is a breathtaking Altiplano Skeleton watch, known as the world’s slimmest self-winding open-worked timepiece. This time, it has a white gold case, whose distinction comes from a black PVD treatment. We expect this stunning timepiece to reach one of the highest prices at the upcoming charity auction in Monaco.

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Another thing that makes this watch so special is an ultra-thin mechanism (Caliber 1200S) which is, with the thickness of 2.4mm, the slimmest automatic skeleton movement in the world. Its white gold case has the diameter of 38 mm and it is just 5.34mm thick. Its nicely polished and black PVD coated surface makes a great contrast with satin-finished plate and the bridges of the open-worked mechanism, as well as with the matching black dauphine-style hands, a blackened platinum oscillating weight and black screws.

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